Anchorage (Alaska) to Rio de Janeiro (Brazil) 2007
This expedition is now on the road. You can follow the progress on the Expedition Diary page.
A PAN-AMERICAN ADVENTURE FROM THE ARCTIC TO THE ANTARCTIC, AND BEYOND
Tour start date in Anchorage: 1st May 2007
Tour end date in Rio de Janeiro: 1st February 2008
Overview
ALASKA - CANADA - USA - MEXICO - BELIZE - GUATEMALA - EL SALVADOR - HONDURAS - NICARAGUA - COSTA RICA - PANAMA - COLOMBIA - ECUADOR - PERU - BOLIVIA - CHILE - ARGENTINA - URUGUAY - PARAGUAY - BRAZIL
If you have a love of the outdoors and a passion for culture then this is definitely the expedition for you!
Click here to see a detailed route map with highlights
You can also download the route map as a PDF
From a dip in the arctic ocean to bear watching in Yellowstone National Park, from the buzz of Mexico City to the pristine beaches of Honduras, and from the magnificence of Machu Pichu to the greatest show on earth at Rio Carnaval, this is the trip that goes in depth into the Americas!
Highlights
- Denali National Park
- Jasper & Banff National Parks
- Yellowstone
- Grand Canyon
- Teotihuacan
- Islands of Belize
- Cartagena
- Amazon Jungle
- Machu Picchu
- Atacama Desert
- Moreno Glacier
- Ushuaia
- Foz do Iguaca
- Pantanal
What's Included (and What's Not)
We of course realise that not everyone is going to visit every ruin, raft every river and hike every trail along the way so we have left most of these activities as optional and therefore kept the kitty payment to a minimum.
Included
- Services of your courier/cook (Karen) and driver/mechanic (William)
- Use of expedition vehicle and equipment
- Diesel, mechanics, shipping and any other costs relating to our truck
- An average of two meals a day while camping
- All camping and hotel costs
- Compulsory ferry tickets
- All entry fees to National Parks that we visit in the truck as a group including Yellowstone, Jasper, Banff, Denali, Mt. Ranier, Grand Canyon, Amazon, Los Glaciares, Torres del Payne and the Pantanal.
- All entry fees to any ruins that we visit in the truck as a group including Teotihuacan, Monte Alban, Palenque, Edzna, Chichen Itza, Uxmal, Tumul, Texla, Tikal, Chan Chan Puerto Inca and the Jesuit Missions.
- Devils Nose train journey (Ecuador)
- Condor viewing at Colca Canyon (Peru)
- Guided tour of Valdes Peninsula (Argentina)
- 2 days in the Pantanal (Brazil)
Not Included
- Personal travel insurance
- Personal spending money
- Visas
- Border taxes
- Lunch
- Meals while in hotels
- Entrance fees to optional sites and parks
- Any optional activities
- Any unforseen contingency route expenses
- Any flights (expected - Panama to Colombia)
- Tents
- Break during shipping of our truck from Panama to Colombia
Proposed Itinerary
Our proposed itinerary is here to give you a rough idea of where we will be going and what we will be doing during our expedition. This itinerary is the ideal route we would like to take providing all political situations are acceptable during the time of our travels. Obviously things can change and we may have to take an alternative route at some stage which is easily achieved in the Americas.
Week 1 & 2: ALASKA
Nowhere on earth conjures up such vivid images as Alaska. The natural splendour and abundant wildlife make Alaska the perfect place to start our expedition through the Americas.
Anchorage is our meeting point and is Alaska’s only true city, but even here wild moose still chomp through suburban flower gardens and graze alongside the highways. We spend a couple of days here familiarising ourselves with our expedition vehicle and equipment before heading off into the ‘Real Alaska’.
Immediately south of Anchorage we find the Kenai Peninsula offering us glaciers, whale watching, outstanding salmon fishing and more. Adrenalin junkies get to raft the thunderous ‘Six mile creek’ and the Kenai National Park offers us abundant concentrations of moose, bears, mountain goats and other large game.
The tiny port town of Whittier is set impressively amongst mountains, glaciers and a glistening fjord from where we have the chance to explore the Prince William Sound by cruise boat or by kayak. Breaching humpback whales, pods of orcas, porpoises and sea otters are all common-place here as well as over 200 species of birds.
Following the scenic Sterling Highway we reach the laid back town of Homer and from here we take Tustumena Ferry out to Kodiak Island where over 3000 of the worlds biggest brown bears live.
We now head north for the interior heart of Alaska taking in Thunderbird Falls, Eklutna Lake and the dramatic remains of the Independence Mine along the way. A thousand lakes and tundra capped hills line our way to the wonderful Denali N.P., alive with browsing bears, lone wolves and herds of grazing moose and caribou. We base ourselves here for a few days allowing ample time to explore the magnificent hiking and biking trails on offer.
We feel that our journey through Alaska would be incomplete without a visit to the far north so we continue on to the town of Fairbanks where we prepare and provision ourselves for the Dalton Highway. This desolate road will take us into the arctic circle and up to the town of Deadhorse where the brave can take a refreshing swim in the arctic ocean.
Returning to the south we visit the Wrangell-St. Elias N.P. where the stunning landscape of high peaks, dizzying canyons, enormous glaciers, wild rivers, icy-cold lakes and steaming volcanos make this a dramatic area to explore.
Moving towards the Canadian border we find the quirky settlement of Chicken. Fewer than 20 people reside here but travellers are well catered for at their infamous bar.
Eagle, our next stop, is situated on the banks of the Yukon River and is a lively little town catering mainly to prospectors and trappers. The occasional tourists are delighted by this remnant of the 20th century.
The Top Of The World Highway now takes us east to Canada.
Week 3: CANADA and ALASKA
Dawson City, made famous by the Klondike Gold Rush, remains evocative of it’s past and is well worth exploring. The Klondike Highway takes us along a wonderful road running through almost utter wilderness and on to Whitehorse, a bustling town and great place to re-provision ourselves before returning to Alaska’s south-east and basing ourselves in the picturesque town of Skagway.
From here you can undertake the 3 day Chilkoot Trail which leads you through a giant wilderness museum tracing the steps of the Klondike bound prospectors. We return to Skagway via the White Pass and Yukon Route Railway, undoubtedly the most stately way to see the dazzling scenery hereabouts.
Our vehicle must now return to Canada in order to continue south but for those who are keen to explore this area further you may want to utilise the ferry service to work your way down through the beautiful islands of this archipelago. This will give you time to visit Glacier Bay N.P., Juneau, Prince of Wales Island and Ketchikan.
Week 4 & 5: CANADA
For those of us who opt to stay on our truck we re-join the Alaska Highway and continue to Watson lake where the Cassiar Highway takes us south through some of the wildest and most beautiful scenery yet.
We veer off the highway for Stewart where more mountains and glaciers welcome back those from the ferry journey. The Friendliest Little Ghost Town of Hyder (pop. 70) is close by and a great place to enjoy the locals tales at their world famous bar.
The glorious river and mountain landscapes of the Skeena Valley now take us south towards the Canadian Rockies. Jasper N.P. offers us wonderful hiking and stunning bush camping alongside the worlds 2nd largest glacier fed lake, Maligne.
We now follow a series of National Parks south. Yoho, Banff and Kootenay are all good for rafting, kayaking, fishing, wildlife viewing, walking and hot springs.
We now head west for a glorious taste of civilisation in Vancouver. The wonderful setting between sea and mountains offers it's visitors pleasure and leisure, and the beautiful Vancouver Island is only a short ferry ride away.
Week 6, 7 & 8: USA
We enter in the state of Washington and pass through the old port city of Bellingham before basing ourselves in Seattle to explore this wonderful city and it’s surrounds. This home of grunge music is not only famous for Pearl Jam but also for it’s magnificent setting on a small isthmus of land between two bodies of water which have plenty of islands worth visiting.
South of Seattle we visit Mt. Ranier N.P., the Cascade’s highest peak. The popular climb through lush forests and alpine meadows to reach the top (14,411 ft.) is a great 2 day hike for the adventurous.
A little further on we reach Mt. St. Helens where 20 years ago this volcano erupted levelling hundreds of square miles of forest. The area is slowly recovering but it is amazing to see this volcano-wracked wilderness.
Moving east we pass through the rugged and dramatic landscape of the Yakima Valley with it’s numerous wineries before visiting the historic town of Walla Walla, site of the 1847 massacre at the Whitman Mission.
Dropping down into the state of Oregon we explore Hells Canyon National Recreation Area. At nearly 8000ft deep this is the deepest canyon in North America and the Snake River has been flowing through it since the beginning of time. Jet boat tours through the canyon are awesome!
Crossing into Idaho and then Montana we reach the Frank Church River Of No Return Wilderness Area where the die-hard rafters get to tackle the Salmon River rapids. This area is also renowned for good fishing, accessible hikes and hot springs.
Continuing on we enter Wyoming and the Yellowstone N.P. via a hidden gateway, an isolated entrance to an area of the park much less commercialised. This route leads us to a back-country paradise that is home to more than half the park’s waterfalls and is prime Grizzly country. This park also accommodates more than half the worlds geysers which put on an amazing display.
We now take the scenic route through Idaho, past Bear Lake and through the Logan Canyon before reaching Antelope Island in the Great Salt Lake of Utah. The islands red sand dunes and rocky ridges are home to wild bison and the lakes mineral rich waters offer a very buoyant swim.
Salt Lake City, the Mormon’s H.Q., offers us a good insight into the way of life around here and also the possibility of catching a Utah Jazz basketball game.
We continue south along the scenic central corridor and reach the fabulous Bryce Canyon N.P. Hiking through the canyons and Grand Staircases (a series of step-like uplifted rock layers) is amazing with pink cliff formations, wondrous pinnacles and points, steeples and spires, cliffs and crevices and odd formations known as hoodoos all well worth exploring.
Crossing into Arizona we arrive at the Grand Canyon and spend a couple of days marvelling at this massive slice carved into the desert floor. The multi-coloured rocks and cliffs are best appreciated by hiking along the canyon floor alongside the Colorado River and the huge white-water is a tempting outing for brave rafters.
On our way to Las Vegas we have the chance to visit the Hoover Dam where we can take a fascinating tour through one of the world’s tallest dams.
A short drive away we enter Nevada and reach the gambling capital of the world, Las Vegas. Whether you gamble or not, this city is an oasis of bright lights that should not be missed.
The Mojave desert is our home for a few days as we snake our way into California on our way to Los Angeles. Here we have a few days to indulge ourselves and explore Hollywood, Beverly Hills, Venice, Santa Monica and Long Beach. This is a city that never sleeps and there is always something happening!
Following the Pacific coast highway we continue south to San Diego, our last stop in the USA. This town is a great place to enjoy the laid-back California lifestyle with plenty of sights and wonderful beaches.
Week 9, 10 & 11: MEXICO
Tijuana, Mexico’s border town, is just that, with every virtue and vice that it implies. Anything goes here and it is our gateway to one of Mexico’s most beautiful drives, highway 1 along the Baja California Peninsula, a narrow strip of land with rugged mountains and long stretches of empty shoreline.
Our 4x4 expedition vehicle is put to the test as we go off-road along punishing desert tracks in order to reach the peninsula’s real attractions of isolated beaches, prehistoric cave paintings, excellent fishing and snorkelling and some great surfing spots.
From La Paz in the southern part of the peninsula we now take a ferry over to Los Mochis and the beginning of an epic train journey.
The famous Chihuahua al Pacifico train takes you through the spectacular scenery of the Sierra Madre and Copper Canyon before reaching the small town of Creel where you have a couple of days to explore the area.
We continue hugging the coast down to Mazatlan before heading inland to Durango along winding roads with vertical sided canyons. We now discover the beautiful colonial heartland of Mexico and pass through numerous sleepy towns en-route to the pleasant and lively town of Zacatecas. Close by churches, convents and ruins make great day outings.
The fertile plains of the Rio Gomez lead us to the attractive colonial towns of Dolores Hidalgo, San Miguel de Allende and Guanajuato set amid wild and striking scenery.
The ruins of Teotihuacan are our next stop and are mysterious relics of an ancient civilisation. This site also contains the worlds 3rd largest Pyramid.
From ancient to modern we now reach the capital, Mexico City. This busy metropolis pulsates with energy and is well worth a few days exploration. The Aztec ruins surrounding the city make great day outings.
Moving eastwards we visit one of Mexico’s oldest and most friendly towns, Puebla de los Angeles, from where we can explore the underground labyrinths in Cholula’s man-made pyramid.
Cactus-filled valleys and wide open plains lead us to the charming city Oaxaca, a mixture of colonial glory and indigenous market-places. This world heritage site is crammed full of culture with wonderful museums, churches and markets. The surrounding area offers inspiring archaeology in the form of the Monte Alban Ruins, featuring pyramids, walls, terraces, tombs, staircases and sculptures, all remnants of the ancient capital of the Zapotec culture.
The world’s largest tree is on our route into the Chiapas Highlands where the charming town of San Cristobal de las Casas blends into a magnificent landscape with the Sumidero Canyon close by. Wonderful walks and thrilling boat rides give you the chance to pass by several waterfalls, enter caves and even pass by some quite large crocodiles.
We continue on to Palenque, perhaps the most beautiful of all the Maya ruins in Mexico. Set amongst lush jungle the ruins are a warren of exploration and will keep your camera busy all day.
We now head for the stunning white-sand beaches and scattered Maya ruins of the Yucatan Peninsula. Glorious seafood feasts and lazy days next to the turquoise sea in Cancun fill our days between visiting the wonderful ruins of Edzna, Chichen Itza, Uxmal and Tumul.
Our Mexican adventure over we now head for Belize.
Week 12: BELIZE
We enter this small country from the north and our first stop is at the Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary, a premier birding site which is also home to crocodiles, iguanas, turtles, coatis and howler monkeys.
Belize City will be our next base giving us ample time to explore the beautiful Caribbean-style island cayes just offshore. This is a fantastic spot for diving and fishing and the close-by baboon sanctuary makes for a great day outing too.
Moving inland we find wonderful sanctuary’s protecting the native jaguar, snakes, monkeys, crocodiles, tapirs and more.
San Ignacio is our last stop in Belize from where it is possible to canoe out to the vast cave systems in the area and also make a trip out to the Maya ruins of Caracol.
Week 13: GUATEMALA
We enter Guatemala in the lush lowland jungles where lost world Mayan cities and pyramids lie hidden beneath the tree canopy. Our base for exploring the area is the tiny island town of Flores in Lake Peten Itza. From here we can visit the Texla ruins in the northern jungles as well as Tikal (Mayan skyscrapers poking through the jungle canopy).
Narrow jungle roads now lead us south through beautiful scenery of sheer-sided hills and thatched roof homes. The area around Coban provides great jungle walks through National Parks, good wildlife spotting, stunning swimming lakes and fantastic cave exploration. A little further on we find the colourful market town of Chichicastenango offering some bargain buys and interesting Maya Shrines.
The central highlands now lead us to Lake Atitlan, commonly renowned for being the Most Beautiful Lake in the World. In fact, the whole area is beautiful and there are even 2 volcanoes waiting to be climbed.
Continuing east we reach the charming town of Antigua. Cobbled streets, colonial architecture and friendly faces make this a great place to chill out for a while. From here we wind our way through coffee plantations to the pacific coast and El Salvador.
Week 14: EL SALVADOR
Crossing into this lively and perhaps most friendly of the Central American countries our first stop is at Bosque el Imposible. This national reserve hosts wonderful fauna and flora on it’s rocky slopes. Among the mammals are puma, ocelot, agouti and ant bear, with numerous bird species abounding too.
We continue on to the Cerro Verde volcano region where flowers line the roadside and lakes glisten in the sunlight. Fine volcano trekking is a popular pastime in the region.
The perfectly preserved Mayan ruins of Joya de Ceren are a worthwhile stop en-route to Suchitoto, a treasured colonial town and buzzing cultural centre with good hikes to nearby waterfalls.
Following the Lempa Valley east we pass by small towns and dramatic volcanos into the area that was disputed during the civil war. The town of Perquin was once the guerilla’s capital but is now a peaceful place with a great museum and fantastic scenery.
Week 15: HONDURAS
The charming colonial town of Gracias is our first stop here with the heights of Mt. Celaque a days hike away. The serene and beautiful Mayan ruins of Copan are not far off and mark the south-eastern limit of Mayan dominance.
We now head for the wonderful Bahia de Honduras and soak up the Caribbean rhythms in Puerto Cortes on the north coast.
Hugging the coast east we reach La Ceiba from where you can catch a boat out to the stunning Bay Islands. White sandy beaches, coconut palms and gentle sea breezes typify these islands and the clear waters, rich reefs and intriguing underwater caves make this an idyllic location to undertake a dive course. Actually, this is possibly the cheapest place in the world to do an open water course.
From here we now leave the coast and follow the back roads through the countryside and really get a real appreciation of Honduras’ fabulous landscapes en-route to the Nicaraguan border.
Week 16: NICARAGUA
Winding our way through coffee plantations and pine forests we skirt past Lake Managua and arrive at Volcan Masaya, one of Central America’s most active volcanoes. Situated in a National Park the area offers great hiking around 2 volcanoes, 5 craters and a beautiful lake. Close by we visit the town of Masaya, famous for it’s Indian arts & crafts and leatherwork.
Our next stop is the charming city of Granada, situated on the shores of the vast Lake Nicaragua. The city’s cobbled streets and laid-back attitude make it a great place to hang out for a while. From here we can explore the lakes volcanic Ometepe Island. The lake itself is amazing in that it is a freshwater lake full of saltwater fish. These fish exist in no other lake in the world.
San Juan Del Sur is a delightful last beach stop before arriving in Costa Rica.
Week 17: COSTA RICA
We head straight for the amazing Rincon de la Vieja N.P. where toucans, armadillos, howler monkeys and coatis are just some of the abundant wildlife living in this diverse region of volcanoes, tropical forest, mud pots and hot sulphur springs.
We continue inland and marvel at the Volcan Arenal, Central America’s most active and perfectly formed volcano. Close by, the cloud-forest of Monteverde offers pleasant walking and even ‘Sky Trekking’ (flying by zip wire through the forest).
Back down on the Pacific coast we follow the Costanera and stop off at some lively little beach towns offering us a chance to learn how to surf and/or undertake a Spanish language course for a day or two.
Our last stop in Costa Rica is the laid-back town of Puerto Jimenez. From here you can explore the N.P.’s consisting of tropical rainforests, swamps and miles of empty beaches. There is also turtle spotting at Tortuguero beach.
A short drive now takes us to Panama.
Week 18 & 19: PANAMA (and break to allow shipping of our truck)
We enter in the Chiroqui Highlands where white-water plummets down volcano sides, a stunning area for rafting and walking.
Following the Pan-American Highway we pass through numerous small towns and have a chance to explore the beautiful Azuero Peninsula with welcoming villages and fine beaches.
The road takes us on to Panama City, the capital, where the worlds greatest short-cut and engineering marvel, ‘The Big Ditch’ or Panama Canal is something that has to be seen to be believed.
As the road ends shortly after Panama City it is from here that we must ship our expedition vehicle to Colombia. We estimate that the shipping and customs should take about 2 weeks to complete so this is a good opportunity to have a break from our truck and head out on your own for a while. Venezuala is a popular destination during the break.
Week 20 & 21: COLOMBIA
We meet our truck at the port of Cartagena on the Caribbean coast. Legendary for both it’s outstanding beauty and fascinating history, this town really is a living museum of colonial Spanish architecture and is well worth a few days' exploration.
The surrounding area is littered with fine beaches, beautiful islands and excellent diving which we also take in before moving slightly north to the lively city of Santa Marta. From here we have the opportunity to venture off for a few days hike through lush jungle up to the incredible ‘Ciudad Perdida’ (lost city), or for the less energetic there are the white beaches of the Tayrona National Park and the diving haven of Taganga.
We now move South to the vibrant and modern city of Medellin where we have the chance to mingle with the friendly locals and enjoy civilisation for a couple of days.
Further south we reach Cali, also a wonderful city and the launch pad for anyone wanting to visit the enchanting island of Gorgona, a unique natural wonder which is home to some diverse wildlife found nowhere else on earth.
The archaeological site of Tierradentro is our next stop where an unknown civilisation carved elaborate circular tombs into the soft rock and decorated them with sculptures and paintings.
We continue on to another mysterious funeral site named San Agustin where hundreds of enigmatic stone statues lay next to the graves of a lost empire.
A spectacular and challenging road now leads us on to a perfectly preserved pearl of colonial architecture known as the White City, Popayan. This is a laid-back town where kicking back in a sidewalk café is a great way to pass the day.
A twisting turning road now takes us south to Ecuador.
Week 22 & 23: ECUADOR and optional GALAPOGAS ISLANDS
Slightly north of the equator our first stop in Ecuador is the colourful market town of Otavalo where Saturday traders flock to from as far away as Colombia to ware their goods. Everything and anything can be found here including wonderful traditional crafts.
The lively city of Quito is next offering us sumptuous cuisine and great nightlife. This is also the place to arrange a trip out to the Galapogas Islands for those who are interested.
Dropping out of the Andes we enter pristine Amazon jungle and explore the rivers and tributaries by boat from our base in Coca.
The beautiful Shangri-la Lodge in Tena is our next stop with commanding views of the rainforests and river systems. Tubing, bat-caving and waterfall climbing are interesting day outings from here or just lazing in a hammock enjoying the view is acceptable.
Further up the road we reach Banos, a great little town alive with adventurous excursions. Horse riding, canyoning, mountain biking, rafting and kicking back in the hot springs fill in a couple of days here.
Moving on you now get the opportunity to ride atop the famous train that takes you through the spectacular switchbacks of the Devils Nose.
The colonial air of the town Cuenca is our well preserved last stop in Ecuador. Try the succulent Cuy (roasted guinea pig), it’s fantastic!
Week 24, 25 & 26: PERU
The northern beaches of Peru are our first stop with great fishing and wonderful water sports. Inland and upwards we find Cajamarca, a pleasant and attractive colonial town surrounded by lovely countryside. This is also where the Inca Emporer, Atahualpa, was executed by the Spanish, making it historically very important.
Moving south the landscape turns to desert as we arrive at the village of Huanchaco. Famous for it’s pointed fishing rafts made from totora reeds the area is also a surfers paradise with good waves. The Chan Chan ruins are also close by. These vast and unusually decorated crumbling ruins of the imperial city of the Chimu domains make it the largest adobe city in the world. This area also boasts fascinating pyramids and temples well worth a days exploration.
Back up in the Cordilleras we reach the spectacular town of Huarez, situated at the foothills of the Cordillera Blanca and surrounded by verdant peaks. Great hiking!
Back on the coast we visit Lima for a taste of bustling city life before continuing on to the National Marine Reserve of Paracas. From here you can boat out to the Ballestas Islands which are home to thousands of seabirds and hundreds of sea-lions.
The mysterious Nasca Lines are our next attraction where an exhilarating flight reveals pictures of whales, monkeys, spiders and even spacemen. Made by stones laid out on the desert floor these pictures still baffle archaeologists as to how they were made without having the benefit of aerial supervision.
The mummified remains of ancient tribesmen also litter the area and back down on the coast we visit Cusco’s pre-Columbian port, Puerto Inca. This excellent site is in good condition and the beach camping is great.
We now climb up into the Andes and spend a couple of days in the charming city of Arequipa (2500m). Besides giving ourselves time to acclimatise the town boasts beautiful churches and plazas, mouth-watering cuisine and lively markets.
Continuing upwards into the heart of the Andes we reach Colca Canyon, the deepest canyon in the world. Condors ride the early morning thermals and fly by at eye level giving us great photo opportunities.
A rough track now takes us through tiny villages and awesome high altitude scenery before we emerge into the ancient Inca capital of Cusco. This tourist Mecca is abuzz with energy and it’s beautiful squares, plentiful nightlife and wonderful restaurants make it a great place to explore and live it up a little!
It is also from here that you will start one of your greatest optional excursions, the Inca Trail. This exhilarating 4 day walk lives up to it’s reputation and ends at one of the world’s most beautiful sites, Machu Picchu.
Our final stop in Peru is at the sacred Lake Titicaca. This is the world’s highest navigable body of water and the lakes islands offer overnight stays with the native islanders where it is possible to catch a glimpse of their traditional lifestyle.
Week 27, 28 & 29: BOLIVIA
A short drive across the border brings us to the attractive town of Copacabana on the shores of Lake Titicaca. This town is an intriguing first stop in Bolivia with lively markets selling cheap wares.
La Paz, the highest capital city in the world, is our next impressive stop lying at the bottom of a huge canyon and surrounded by mountains. The city also boasts the worlds highest golf course and ski slopes for the sporty ones to have a go at. The city itself is a lively place with nearly every inch of street space taken up by native women in bowler hats and voluminous skirts squatted down selling everything from fake designer labels to coca leaves. There is even a witches market where you can find dried llama foetuses, magical love potions and an array of other weird and wonderful stuff. We also have the chance to visit La Paz’s maximum security prison and meet the inmates. This city will leave you reeling!
We now drop out of the chill of the High Andes and descend into the sub-tropical valleys known as the Yungas. The torturous road down has achieved the status of being the worlds most dangerous road. A popular and exciting alternative to driving down is to cycle down. This 70km road starts out at around 5000m and finishes at about 1000m, a thrilling descent!
Groves of bananas and oranges lead the way still further down into the Amazon where we can explore some of the most bio-diverse regions on earth from our base in the charming jungle town of Rurrenbaque. The vast amounts of wildlife in this region is beyond belief with caiman, snakes, monkeys, deer, turtles, sloths, tapirs, bear, otters and even dolphins in rich abundance.
A rough jungle track takes us east where we encounter numerous river crossings en-route to the eastern lowlands. From our base in Santa Cruz we have the opportunity to explore Che Guevaras last stand at La Higuera as well as the famous Amboro N.P. with it’s abundant wildlife.
Close by is the sleepy town of Samaipata, the easternmost capital of the Inca Empire with the largest sculpted sacred rock on the continent.
Moving on, the colonial masterpiece that is Sucre is a great place to wander around and soak up the lively student town atmosphere.
A little further, on one of Bolivia’s few tar sealed roads, is another gem of a town named Potosi. This is the highest city in the world at over 4000m, and was once the wealthiest city in the world due to it’s prolific silver mines. The mines still operate and you can take a tour into their depths through a series of tunnels and shafts. At the end of the tour you can even buy dynamite and have a go at your own excavation.
We continue on to Uyuni where, weather permitting, we start an exciting drive around the large salt flats and on to the Bolivian Altiplano. Sulphur rich lakes glow green, geysers spurt and volcanoes smoke up here in an otherwise barren landscape. A three day crossing through this area offers amazing high altitude scenery and a spectacular end to Bolivia.
Week 30: CHILE
We drop steeply out of the Andes into our first Chilean town of San Pedro de Atacama, located in the world’s driest desert. This dusty frontier town is straight out of a spaghetti western and the relatively low altitude brings a welcome change in weather.
Desert meets ocean and we follow a coastal route taking in magnificent scenery with great beach camps. Here we buy our seafood straight from the fishing boats and enjoy the stunning beaches of Pan de Azucar N.P. from where boat trips are on offer to explore the rich sea-life of otters, seals, sea lions and birds.
The Atacama Desert is said to have the clearest skies in the world and we have the opportunity to visit some of the largest telescopes ever made which are located here.
The lively modern beach town of La Serena is a pleasant stop en-route to the capital, Santiago. The city’s tree lined streets and wonderful architecture create a serene atmosphere but dig a little deeper and you discover a vibrant social scene. Huge coffee bars, tiny rock bars, sumptuous cuisine at restaurants like the ‘Fat Cow’ and streets crammed full with late night dance clubs all make Santiago unforgettable.
We now head east, over the Andes and into Argentina.
Week 31: ARGENTINA
The road over the Andes is spectacular with the Cerro Aconcagua (6959m) visible en-route to the famous wine producing town of Mendoza. A wine tasting tour of the area's bodegas is a must and the towns sophisticated restaurants and wine bars make a tantalising night out.
We now head for San Rafael, a mini Mendoza, where you get the chance to brave the white waters of the Canyon del Atuel.
Stunning mountains, deep caves and guanaco rich pampas are all part of the scenery en-route to the dinosaur sites around Neuquen where the world's largest herbivorous and carnivorous dinosaur fossils are on display.
Heading east we cross over mountains covered with Monkey Puzzle Trees, back into Chile.
Week 32-35: CHILE and ARGENTINA
The Swiss-style town of Pucon, located on the beautiful Lake Villarica amongst pine clad valleys, is an absolute treat with plenty of water sports, horse riding and volcano treks on offer.
We continue south and a short ferry ride takes us over to the densely forested and well-watered island of Chiloe. Stunning scenery and picturesque villages make a few days on this island a unique experience.
Another ferry then takes us back to the mainland and the beginning of an awesome journey along the Camino Austral, an area likened to Alaska and New Zealand’s south island. Futaleufu is our first stop here and is a world class destination for fishing, kayaking and white-water rafting and actually boasts having the world’s most dangerous river.
Our route south is a wild domain of steep-sided fjords, rushing rivers, evergreen forests, creeping glaciers and high volcanic peaks. The town of Coihaque is our friendly base for a few days allowing time to explore the areas attractions, including the amazing San Rafael Glacier reached only by boat or airplane.
Settlements now become few and far apart as we bush camp our way south, around the gorgeous shores of Lago General Carrera and back into Argentina.
We are now in Patagonia, land of the raging winds, and La Cueva de las Manos (cave of the painted hand) is our first stop. The cave holds some of the finest examples of rock paintings in South America dating back as far as 7300 B.C. The horse ride, short hike and occasional scramble to get there is half the adventure.
Our next stop is at the Los Glaciares National Park, an area famous for its incredible hiking trails around Mt.Fitz Roy, glacier trekking on Perito Moreno and breathtaking boat excursions through the glacial waterways. Nestled into these extreme landscapes are the small villages of El Chalten and El Calafate, both great places to relax and enjoy a hot meal.
Across the border again we visit Chile’s Torres del Payne N.P. Our idyllic campsite next to a turquoise glacial lake affords us great views of the jagged mountain peaks towering skywards. The hiking is once again stunning and a great way to see guanaco up close.
We now cross the Magellan Strait and enter Tierra del Fuego, largely a land of windswept bleakness but harbouring some fantastic little treasures. The charming town of Ushuaia, dramatically located between huge mountains and the icy Beagle Channel, is our base for exploring the regions trekking, kayaking, fishing, boat cruising and of course, great bars and restaurants. This is also the closest land point to Antarctica and is commonly referred to as The End Of The World.
Back on the mainland we now start our journey north through the most barren and windswept landscape that you will probably ever encounter. Good river and surf fishing abounds but that is about all until we reach the Valdes Peninsula, one of the planets most significant marine reserves. This area is home to thousands upon thousands of sea lions, elephant seals and penguins. Preying upon all these are the magnificent orcas and their beach attacks are a spectacle not to be missed.
Hugging the Atlantic coastline we continue north up to the fine beaches of Mar del Plata and it’s surrounds before reaching the capital of Buenos Aires. If you are not a city person, this is probably the city that will change your mind. Glorious architecture, wide tree-lined streets and open-air Tango shows are but a few of the city’s attributes. Culturally, this is the place to be with exquisite restaurants, interesting museums and fabulous music concerts. Whatever your heart desires you will find it in Buenos Aires!
Week 36: URUGUAY
We now cross into a country that is one of South America's best kept secrets, Uruguay. The broad cobbled streets of the historic Colonia del Sacramento is a world away from the busy streets of Buenos Aires and is a relaxing first stop here.
Further east we reach the capital Montevideo, a pleasant city with a great seafood market where you can enjoy all the Frutas del Mar prepared by fishermen in the heart of a fishmarket frenzy.
The beaches of Punta del Este are our next stop and are amongst the best on the continent.
The thermal pools of Salto are our final destination here before returning to Argentina.
Week 37 & 38: ARGENTINA, BRAZIL and PARAGUAY
We now enter a vast system of wetlands known as the Esteros del Ibera where we get to experience close-up observation of wildlife such as caiman, capybara, marsh deer, howler monkeys, boas, the rare maned wolf and over 300 species of birds.
The road north takes us close to the Rio Parana and scattered Jesuit Mission ruins which we can explore at our leisure.
Our next stop is at the fabulous Argentinian side of the Foz do Iguacu waterfalls. They are one of the world’s natural wonders, more than 3 km wide and 80m high with 275 falls plunging and crashing off a series of tiers, making them the most beautiful falls in the world. Power boating around the falls is a must if you don’t mind getting wet.
Just across the border we now visit the Brazilian side of Foz do Iguacu waterfalls where a helicopter ride can give you a bird's eye view of the falls. We also get our first taste of Brazilian food and dancing here before crossing the border into Paraguay.
We move eastwards through lush scenery to reach the lively capital of Asuncion, blissfully located on the banks of the Rio Paraguay. The city is full of bustling markets selling everything from cheap electronic equipment to underwear and also boasts some wonderful museums and intricate architecture.
From here we continue north via lazy river towns and impressive geological formations to reach the towns of Concepcion and Pedro Juan Caballero
from where we have the opportunity to visit Cerro Cora N.P. This park protects dry tropical forest and savanna grasslands in a landscape of steep, isolated hills rising above the central plateau and offers superb walks.
We now return to Brazil.
Week 39 & 40: BRAZIL
Continuing north we reach the eco-tourism boom town of Bonito situated on the edge of the Pantanal. From here we can snorkel down one of the world’s clearest rivers coming face to face with numerous large fish species and even caiman. Subterranean cave diving is also a popular activity in this area.
A short drive away we enter the vast wetlands of the Pantanal. This is a region of plentiful wildlife, few people and no towns. Days are easily whiled away game viewing and piranha fishing, and occasional confrontations with anaconda and caiman will keep the adrenalin pumping.
We now head back to the coast, by-pass Sao Paulo and arrive at the colonial village of Parati. Here the steep jungled mountains seem to leap into a sea filled with hundreds of islands and jutting peninsulas. Mobile one-man bars wander the cobbled streets mixing up caipirinhas to cool down weary travellers returning from the islands. The place is quite simply idyllic!
A few days relaxing in Parati puts us in good stead for the non-stop party we are about to attend in Rio de Janeiro. The city is absolutely effervescent and the atmosphere is contagious. Days can be enjoyed on the beaches of Ipanema and Copacabana and wild nights are spent dancing away at the Sambodrome.
Pao de Acucar and Cristo Redentor offer unparalleled views of what is known locally as the Marvellous City and makes a fitting final destination for an incredible journey from Anchorage to Rio!
